In Chapter Ten, Pietra Rivoli lets her readers know where t-shirts go after American’s have thrown them out. It turns out the cast-off t-shirt industry is a booming business. However, unlike the textile and apparel trade industries, the cast-off clothing industry must compete in a real market. The most successful companies are the ones that are experts in matching America’s old clothing with customers all over the globe. Used clothing is exported from American processors to Eastern Europe, the Philippines, Chile, Guatemala, and Africa (p. 183). Some thrown-out clothing is not re-wearable, and these products become wiping rags or shoddy.
I was fascinated by the hurdles and risks the cast-off clothing industry has to endure to be successful. After reading about the politics of textiles and apparels, I nearly forgot what a real market looks like. Trans-Americas must pay market value wages to its employees, and the employees are paid according to skill level. The owners work in the factory. The business requires particular skills, not only in sorting, but also in customer relations. Also, Trans-Americas has to change with the market and demands of the customers, or it risks the demise of the company. Textile and apparel industries do not have any of these risks. In this chapter, Rivolo also helped me see a different picture of Africa. People, including myself, are tempted to see Africa as a nation so poor its people do not have preferences. However, the African consumers are just as concerned with clothing quality, fashion, and price as Americans. What’s more, they have the leverage to be picky about what cast-offs they receive from America.
In Chapter Eleven, Rivoli introduces the reader to the poverty in East Africa, particularly Tanzania, and shows how cast-off clothing – called mitumba – is helping many people out of poverty. It is a wonder that the mitumba market is so successful in East Africa because so many formal attempts at creating a business market have failed. The mitumba market displays the closest thing to a free-market with little to no barriers between buyers and sellers. There are signs of improved quality of life in Africa as a result of the mitumba market: the consumers are getting pickier and the competition between sellers is heating up.
I would have never guessed that cast-off clothing could do so much for the poor. When I give my old clothes to Goodwill, I assume someone somewhere will enjoy them, but I do not think of African markets. I think the exchange of goods between the buyers and sellers in these markets is fascinating. The sellers know what their customers are looking for and they work hard to find the right products. I feel like the African people have more choice in what they where than I do because I can only wear what the clothing stores are selling at the time. The volume of cast-off clothing being poured into Africa assures that the consumers can be picky. It is a good sign that the buyers are being pickier because it shows that they can afford more expensive items. If Africans are buying more, their economy is on the rise. Another sign of a growing economy is the growing competition in the industry. More sellers are coming into the playing field, so everyone has to step up their game. Those who can’t compete have to sell out or diversify. I think it is great to hear about the entrepreneurial energy in Africa. The mitumba trade has given many people like Gulam Dewji the opportunity to be successful in the world market. The cast-off t-shirt business has its critics, but I don’t think I am one of them. After seeing all the good my t-shirt can accomplish, I’m all for it.